In the builder's manual, Section H, Chapter 1, Page 14, shows an alternative method of making the stick-to-stickpush rod. My rod is a slightly different version. Instead of using square tubing, I use 5/8" x .058 tubing. In this tubing I fit a couple of AN490-10 threaded rod ends. I did this by putting the ends in a lathe and turning about.010 off the diameter so that they were a tight fit in the .058 tubing. You must also cut about 1/4" off each threaded end. Be careful doing this so you don't bugger up the threads.
I cut a 60deg v-notch in the tubing andwelded the ends on. I got this:
In order to measure how long the tubes need to be, I left the torque tube in the jig I built, but I changed out the bolts at the stick mounting point to some long 1/4", 5" long bolts that allowed me to mount the sticks on the outside of the boots, so I could easily measure the length of the stick-to-stick tubing. By clamping my jig in a vice, thisallowed me to easliy set each stick at 90deg to the torque tube while I measured it.
I used a RE4F5 bearing end on each end to aid in adjustability and smoothness.
So, the sticks have bearings, the stick-to-stick tubes have bearings....and so far, so good. Everything is butter-smooth.
I cut a 60deg v-notch in the tubing andwelded the ends on. I got this:
In order to measure how long the tubes need to be, I left the torque tube in the jig I built, but I changed out the bolts at the stick mounting point to some long 1/4", 5" long bolts that allowed me to mount the sticks on the outside of the boots, so I could easily measure the length of the stick-to-stick tubing. By clamping my jig in a vice, thisallowed me to easliy set each stick at 90deg to the torque tube while I measured it.
I used a RE4F5 bearing end on each end to aid in adjustability and smoothness.
So, the sticks have bearings, the stick-to-stick tubes have bearings....and so far, so good. Everything is butter-smooth.
